How do lazy jacks work




















For those with smaller or medium-sized boats, a two-line system should be just fine. For those with larger sails, a three or four-line system would provide better support to fight against a larger sail. For the Dutchman system, this is better suited for those with battens.

There is really no right or wrong answer for what kind of system you need to get for your sailboat. After all, the whole purpose of the lazy jacks is to help guide your mainsail back onto the boom to help stow it.

However, before you go out and get a whole bunch of line and start connect lines to your boom and mast, consider a few pros for a two-line system:.

Three and four-line systems are obviously needed for those with larger sails and help those who want to have greater support and redundancy. However, they too have a few cons:. One of the main problems with sailboats with lazy jacks is that if you have battens installed they frequently get caught when hoisting the mainsail.

For those sailboats, it is recommended to use the Dutchmen system. The Dutchmen system prevents battens from getting caught in the lazy jack lines by having lines interwoven into the mainsail every few feet through fairleads.

These leads help raise and lower the sail like a window shade. While this system is great for those with battens, unless you have sail-making experience, you would not be able to make this system on your own. Additionally, this system requires the use of a topping lift line. Since not all sailboats come equipped with this line you would have to add it on. Operating a lazy jack is rather simple.

After all, if it was not it would not be as popular as it is today. In its most basic form, the pilot can operate the lazy jack by pulling the lazy jack off its cleat and then attaching the hooks to the boom where it is anchored. You then raise the mainsail and get underway. No matter whether you have a two, three, or four-line system, the lines act as a guide when you are ready to retrieve the mainsail.

To keep the rig anchored, you will usually have two pad eyes drilled into the mast and then the lines will be fastened to the boom. The lines should ideally cover three-quarters of the surface area of the sail and wherever there is a junction a rope thimble or block should be used. But I must tell you that Robert is outstanding. Having taught SCUBA, I really appreciate the way he is so sensitive to all on board, dealing with each so well, knowing quickly their strengths and weaknesses making each feel special and cared for.

Skip to main content. What are lazy jacks and stack packs? As the mainsail approaches the point where the legs join the risers, keep a close eye on the sail. If the wind is pushing the sail into one of the legs, steer towards the wind until the sail is luffing evenly between the lazy jacks in the pocket on both sides again. Coho II mainsail lazy jacks and stack pack. Share This Page. Testimonials Mike, Santa Rosa, California. You can also subscribe without commenting.

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Next Post. Sun Protection While Sailing. Travel Blog Expand child menu Expand. Europe Expand child menu Expand. Americas Expand child menu Expand. Pacific Islands Expand child menu Expand. Asia Expand child menu Expand. I did not want to make any other modifications. I decided I wanted the lazyjacks to retract and lie along the boom when not needed. Some commercial kits are designed to do this and others can be adapted.

Kits will come with all necessary hardware, sometimes right down to the drill bits and taps, which can save you a few trips to the chandlery. Either is more than strong enough. After first engaging a rigger to scale the mast and rivet a pair of cheek blocks to either side of the spar just below the top spreaders, I marked off the boom with tape at 3-foot intervals, and tied the individual legs off at these marks.

It took a fair bit of fiddling about before I was happy with the lead of the lines. Because the lower lines would have to run freely, I debated whether to use blocks, but settled on 1in-diameter stainless steel rings—mainly because I already had some.

Blocks offer the least friction, but can chafe the sail unless sheathed in plastic or leather. I did not want to drill holes in the boom. Between those and the sliders for the reefing lines, I was able to tie off the reefing lines without having to install permanent padeyes. Simple cam cleats or even horn cleats would have worked much better.

Best of all, I can raise the mainsail without worrying about getting hooked up on those infernal lazyjacks. You can make up your own lazyjacks, but you have to buy the Dutchman system as a kit.

The sail will have to be modified by a sailmaker, so the cost is typically a couple of hundred dollars more than a set of professionally installed lazyjacks. The legs are secured to the boom about two-thirds of the way abaft the gooseneck, taken up about 6ft and through small blocks or stainless steel rings on the falls, and forward to jammers or cleats on the boom about one-third of the way back from the gooseneck.

You should mock up the installation before drilling holes in your boom. Make sure there is enough spare line to allow the lazyjacks to be slackened enough to pull them forward and secure them out of the way of the sail. It is common to see the risers taken up to cheek blocks on either side of the mast, then back down to the gooseneck, where they are cleated off or run through jammers. This allows the lazyjacks to be adjusted or completely slacked off. The legs are usually secured to eye straps, evenly spaced along the boom starting at percent of the way forward of the clew.

The legs may be run through 1in stainless rings or small blocks so they can be pulled flat along the boom when you want to hoist sail or put the sail cover on; or you can simply seize the legs to the rings and either leave the lazyjacks permanently rigged or secure the legs with snap hooks so you can unclip them from the boom easily and tie them out of the way.



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